Michael and Ruthie's adventure in Paris
Thoughts on our last days
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We have just 9 more days in Paris! Yikes! Although that's longer than most people spend on a vacation here - we are beginning to feel the time slipping away.
We have just settled into our daily routines. We have not only learned how to get to places on the metro, but have learned how to get back home! We have learned which exit to take, which way to turn, which tunnel and stairway to take,
and when we leave the metro from either of our stations, Pyrénées or Jourdain, which exits to take - that depends if we are going to the super marche, the wine shop, patisserie
or getting a rotisserie, or just home, or all of the above. Each has a different exit. So just as we are getting our Parisian legs - so to speak - we are leaving!!
To the French with my camera draped around my neck
and Ruth Anne constantly looking at the map
we must look like a couple of chaim yonkels. We get the sense sometimes that as we approach a market and when they see us coming, the price is increased by at least two euros. We have been hustled at least twice.The first time we were in front of Sacre Coeur. We had just gotten off the metro into a rather touristy and tawdry part of town. Ramshackle stores selling chachkas, the ever present Eiffel tower in a variety of sizes, and what looked like piles of remaindered clothing.. Ahead through the alley of stuff, we saw on the hill
the dazzling white Sacre Coeur
as we approached the steps leading up the hill both Ruth Anne and I were cut off by two young African men who grabbed our respective fingers and began to wrap colored string around them. Talking all the time in that wonderful lilting African tinged English, both claiming that there was no charge, they were just giving us a good luck charm. (Right!) After weaving the threads, a minute's operation, then wrapping it around our wrists
suddenly a donation was asked for - Ruth Anne's 2 euros, mine wanted 5. (I better find a smaller camera). It turns out that after they discovered we were Americans, both the young men were from Kenya - although initially mine seemed to be from Zaire and Ruth Anne's was from Senegal. The second con I saw coming, but again just fell into it. A man was walking ahead of us on a street about a half mile from the Eiffel tower. We were walking in a small neighborhood in search of a chinese restaurant recommended by 'The Lonely Planet' (they got this restaurant wrong we had the worst lunch for 35 euros there another day) He reached down and picked up what looked like a gold wedding band. He stopped, looked at me, and started speaking in French. I indicated I didn't speak French. He walked on, and just as I was saying to Ruth Anne that this looked like a hustle - he stopped, turned around, came back to us and pointed to some stamp inside the ring and pulled Ruth Anne's hand out and stuck the ring on the largest finger she had where it loosely fit. He then walked off. He stopped, turned around, came back and asked for money in the international language of a hand out and making grunting sounds to indicate he was hungry. As he got more aggressive and wouldn't take the ring back, I gave him about 1 euro in change and off he went counting the coins.
Since then, we have seen about 8 other people around the Eiffel tower bending down and picking up rings. Whenever we go in that neighborhood, I always bring the ring with me. When someone bends down and picks up that miraculously found gold ring and wants to pass it off for just a euro, or two I fish in my pocket and flash my ring at them. Unfortunately, this is the equivalent of hanging a wooden owl outside your window to scare off pigeons - it doesn't - they only begin to make other possible offers in a rat-a-tat of gestures and French, and sometimes even offer to buy the darn thing from me - but they are quickly dissuaded as I walk on with a parting ironic laugh. Sometimes it seems like we have overpaid for produce and god knows how many times my fumbling with the coins resulted in change that was a euro or so off. But mainly, people here like people everywhere have treated us with respect and laughed with us (we hope) at our clumsy, inept maneuverings.
In spite of the minor down sides, we love walking around this town. This is a country that doesn't begrudge spending money on the visual arts.
There are sculptures, monuments and fountains at the turn of a corner
, walking down a street looking for one building and discovering another unexpected jewel.
Looking down the curved streets in all kinds of weather
We have drunk too much wine and eaten too much fat. And yet we're so intoxicated with the experience we still want another tipple. We already feel nostalgic as we look around us feeling the press of our expected departure.
Ah! Paris, mon amour, we already miss you!
Thanks for sharing our adventure! - Love Ruth Anne & Michael